Hatching your own chicks can be an exciting and rewarding journey, but it comes with important considerations. One key factor is the likelihood of hatching cockerels, which can make up roughly half of your chicks. Not all areas permit cockerels due to noise restrictions, and rehoming them can be challenging, as demand for roosters is often low. Before deciding to hatch, ensure you have a plan in place for cockerels and assess your ability to provide for all the chicks, both hens and roosters. Hatching is a wonderful experience, but it requires careful thought and preparation to manage its responsibilities.
Should I Hatch?
Hatching Methods
When it comes to hatching chicks, there are two main methods: natural hatching under a broody hen or using an incubator. Natural hatching relies on a broody chicken to sit on the eggs, turning them and maintaining the correct temperature and humidity. However, many modern egg-laying hybrids, like ISA Browns or Lohmanns, have had broodiness bred out of them and are unlikely to sit on eggs. If you prefer natural hatching, consider broody breeds such as Silkies, Gold Tops, or Orpingtons, which are known for their strong maternal instincts. Alternatively, an incubator allows you to control the process manually, ensuring consistent temperature and humidity. While incubators require more involvement, they are a reliable option if broody hens aren’t part of your flock. Both methods have their benefits, so the choice depends on your resources and goals.
Natural Hatching
- Encourage Broodiness
To encourage a hen to go broody, place a few golf balls or fake eggs in the nest box. This can simulate a clutch of eggs and may trigger a broody instinct in certain breeds. Monitor your flock closely for signs of broodiness, such as the hen spending prolonged periods on the nest, puffing up her feathers, and clucking protectively. - Confirm and Isolate if Needed
Once a hen shows signs of being broody, ensure she is genuinely committed before proceeding. If the nest is in a shared space, consider moving her to a separate, quiet area to prevent other hens from laying additional eggs in her nest or disturbing her. Use a small pen or broody box with access to food, water, and bedding. - Place Eggs Under the Hen
Replace the golf balls with fertile eggs, ideally all at once, so they hatch around the same time. Gently tuck the eggs under the broody hen during the evening to minimise disruption. Most hens can comfortably cover 6–12 eggs, depending on their size. - Care During Incubation
Leave the hen to do what she does best. Over the next 21 days, she will turn the eggs, maintain their temperature, and keep them humid. If she’s isolated, check daily to ensure her food and water are topped up, as she’ll leave the nest briefly to eat, drink, and stretch. - Prepare for Chicks
Chicks will begin to hatch on day 21. The mother hen will stay on the nest until all the chicks have hatched and dried off, which usually takes another day. By day 22, she may start to leave the nest with her brood. Ensure chick crumb is available from this point, as she will guide the chicks to eat and drink.
Incubator Hatching
- Prepare the Incubator
Start by setting up your incubator, ensuring it is clean and functioning properly. Place it in a stable environment, away from drafts or direct sunlight. Preheat the incubator to a temperature of 37.5°C (99.5°F) with a humidity level of 50–55%. A hygrometer and thermometer will help monitor the conditions inside. - Select and Prepare the Eggs
Choose fertile eggs from healthy, well-cared-for hens. Eggs should be collected as fresh as possible, ideally within a few days of being laid. If you have to store them before incubating, keep them at a cool, consistent temperature (around 12–15°C) and turn them gently once or twice a day. Clean eggs only if necessary—do not wash them, as this can remove the protective coating. - Place Eggs in the Incubator
Place the eggs in the incubator, ensuring they are positioned with the pointed end facing downwards. Arrange the eggs to allow for air circulation, ensuring they’re not overcrowded. If using a manual incubator, make sure to plan for regular turning. Automatic turners are available and can be a helpful investment. - Monitor Temperature and Humidity
Keep a close eye on the temperature and humidity throughout the incubation process. The temperature should remain at 37.5°C (99.5°F), and the humidity should be 50–55% for the first 18 days. During the final three days (the lockdown phase), increase the humidity to 65–70% to help soften the eggshells for hatching. - Turn the Eggs
Turn the eggs at least three times a day during the first 18 days of incubation. If using a manual incubator, rotate the eggs 180° each time. If you’re using an automatic turner, ensure it’s working properly. This helps ensure even heating and proper development of the embryos. - Stop Turning and Prepare for Hatching
On day 18, stop turning the eggs to allow the chicks to position themselves for hatching. Increase the humidity as mentioned earlier, and do not open the incubator unless absolutely necessary. You can add a damp cloth or sponge to the incubator to raise the humidity during this final phase. - Wait for the Hatch
The chicks should begin hatching on day 21. This can take several hours, and some may take longer than others to fully emerge. Do not open the incubator during this time, as sudden changes in temperature or humidity can be harmful to the developing chicks. Allow them to hatch and dry off inside the incubator before removing them. - Post-Hatch Care
Once the chicks have dried off, usually after 24 hours, move them to a brooder with a heat source, chick crumb, and fresh water. Ensure they are kept warm at around 35°C (95°F) for the first few days, reducing the temperature gradually as they grow.